A simple way to wing it

So, you've put off choosing what to make for the Super Bowl, and now you've decided you absolutely must have chicken wings.

No worries. Wings are a procrastinating cook's dream entrée.

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A simple way to wing it

"You should do them at the last minute," says Debbie Moose, author of "Wings: More than 50 high-flying recipes for America's favorite snack" (Wiley, $16.95). "Wings are a great spur of the moment food because you don't need a long time to marinate or cook."

Wings also are perfect because they require so little to enjoy, she says. No forks and knives. Just a big pile of napkins.

"Plus, if you're watching the game and you don't like the call, you have a wonderful way to express yourself by throwing something," she says.

Moose, a freelance writer and author based in Raleigh, N.C., said she wrote the wing book because she enjoys cooking them for parties and sports gatherings.

She learned there are myriad flavors beyond the usual Buffalo style, including spicy Indian-style vindaloo wings, Asian-flavored Black Belt Wings with soy sauce, and barbecue wings using Cheerwine soda made in North Carolina.

Another thing she learned while doing the book: There are three parts to the chicken wing. First, there's the "drumette," which looks like a meaty little chicken leg. Then there's the "flat," the two-bone portion that pulls apart to reveal delicious meat. Last is the "flapper," the pointy end of the wing.

"That's the kind of stuff you find out while writing a book like this," she says.

Many prefer the drumette to the flat and flapper. Why? "Because they think the drumette is cuter," she says.

"I went to a party once where I had to leave and come back," Moose says. "When I returned, all the drumettes were gone and all the flats were still on the plate."

If you plan on cooking wings for the big game, Moose offers these tips:

Marinate the wings too long and the meat will cook too soft. Between 15 and 30 minutes should do the trick.

Rubs work in as little as 15 minutes.

If you're serving wings to people who don't like fat, cook the wings on a grill instead of frying them. The grill gives a crispy texture and the fat drips away from the wings.

To save money, buy the whole wing and section them yourself. "I found I could save up to a dollar per pound by buying the whole wings and cutting them up on my own," Moose says.

Not everyone enjoys the same flavors or spice level. To accommodate, cook a batch of plain wings and offer a variety of dipping sauces.

If you grill over direct heat, use a low temperature and make sure they don't burn. Using indirect heat reduces the likelihood of burning the wings, especially those made with sauce that uses sugar or sweetener in its ingredients.

If you fry the wings, make sure the oil is between 350 to 360 degrees. And don't overload the pan with chicken. Too much chicken will lower the temperature and make the chicken greasy.

Moose says she likes to drain fried wings on a rack over a plate rather than just on paper towels. That way you know the oil will drip away and you won't have a soggy backside to your wings.

"Wings just don't require a lot of fuss," she says. "I'm not sure people would like them as much if they did."

Reporter Jeff Houck can be reached at (813) 259-7324.

CRUNCHY LEMON PEPPER WINGS

1/4 cup lemon pepper seasoning

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

12 wings, cut in half at joints, wing tips removed and discarded

On a plate, combine the lemon pepper and chives. Pour the olive oil in a separate small bowl. Dip the wings lightly in the olive oil, then roll in the lemon pepper mixture. Let the coated wings sit for about 15 minutes.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct cooking. Place the wings on the grill and cook, turning frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes or until well done. Watch carefully and adjust the heat to avoid burning the coating.

Reporter Jeff Houck can be reached at (813) 259-7324.