Going up: Trek offers big-view potential

On a sweltering Saturday with temperatures in the upper 90s, the view of the James River was one of the few things sustaining hikers ascending the Appalachian Trail on their way to Fullers Rocks.
Fullers Rocks is a rocky outcrop in Amherst County along the Appalachian Trail on the western side of Little Rocky Row. It provides an overlook of the James River as the river winds through miles of gorge.

The shortest trailhead intersects Hercules Road about a mile up an old quarry access road just over the river from Bedford County on U.S. 501 north. There is a very small parking area on Hercules Road for three cars — tops — along the right side of the road heading to the quarry.

It’s easy to miss, so drive slowly. Or, keep it simple and start your day at the James River Foot Bridge and add a bit of mileage.

Starting from the quarry road, the first half of the trail is exceptionally serene and well graded. Here, there is more walking than hiking.

In the nearly 20 years I’ve spent on the Appalachian Trail, there has been much talk of “trail magic.” I’ve only really experienced this twice and both in the last year. One happened on this very hike.
Last weekend, I smelled the woods for the first time since I made the very bad decision during my teens to start smoking.

In spite of quitting some time ago, some things just never came back. The smell of that oak forest Saturday as the sweltering heat washed the land was miraculous and brought me to tears.
The moment was short-lived, however.

What the day hike lacks in length, it more than makes up for in elevation change. According to my GPS receiver, I climbed 1,819 feet over the course of a little more than 2½ miles.
I counted 17 switchbacks during the steep portion. I took every one as an opportunity to stop, catch my breath and take a drink of water.

They’re not going to kill you. After all, I am not the epitome of fitness. (When my nurse called last week with the results of a recent cholesterol test, she sighed so much I thought she was having an asthma attack.)

Just take your time.

The trail opens up at about 2,400 feet to a two or three-story lichen-covered rock formation riding up the face of Little Rocky Row. Just a few dozen feet past Fullers Rocks, it opens again to reveal the James River below and Big Island beyond.

On Saturday, with the high heat and humidity, I have to admit the haze in the nearby mountain valleys and along the river put a damper on things when I finally reached the overlook. The big yellow plume coming out of the Georgia Pacific plant in Big Island didn’t help things, either.

On a cooler, clear day, I imagine one could see as far as Lynchburg more than 15 miles away.

Still, the area around Fullers Rocks is peppered at this time of year with a variety of wildflowers. For critter lovers, Eastern fence lizards are everywhere.

I find the lizards are most often seen when one is barreling downhill, eager to get back home and off in his own world. They are most commonly recognized by the sensation of all four chambers of the heart squeezing together at once when one dashes out in front of you.

They’re harmless, nonetheless.

Although I went up and back the same way, there are two great circuit hikes to be had nearby.

Just beyond Fullers Rocks, Little Rocky Row trail leads 2.8 miles down to 501, a little more than two miles south of Glasgow.

Saddle Gap trail splits off the Appalachian Trail 2.6 miles north of Fullers Rocks, leading along part of the AT’s original 1930 route back to Hercules Road.

if you’re going
WHAT: Fullers Rocks, a rocky outcrop on Little Rocky Row that provides an overlook of the James River gorge and many nearby peaks. The 5.2-mile Appalachian Trail hike ascends more than 1,800 feet.
WHERE: From Big Island, take U.S. 501 north across the James River. Once across the river, turn right on Virginia 812/Hercules Road. The trail intersects with the road in 0.9 miles. A very small parking area on Hercules Road for three cars at most can be found along the right side of the road heading to an old quarry.
INFO: Go at your own pace. Bring a quart or two of water. If you want to do it right, bring trekking poles and your camera.